Matsuyama - Travel Guide
last update: April 12, 2026
Matsuyama (松山) is the capital of Ehime Prefecture and the largest city on the island of Shikoku. The city is mainly known for its castle, one of the few original feudal castles remaining in Japan, and for the Dogo Onsen area, one of the oldest and most famous hot spring resorts in the country.
What to see and do in Matsuyama
Shiroyama Park - Matsuyama Castle
The Matsuyama Castle is one of the best examples of a Japanese feudal castle still standing today. Built between 1602 and 1628 by order of Katō Yoshiaki, it still preserves some original structures, while others were added in later periods or reconstructed in recent decades following the original designs. The castle is located within Shiroyama Park, perched on a hill in the center of the city, and its position makes it a particularly fascinating place to visit. It can be reached either with a pleasant 20–25 minute walk or comfortably by ropeway or chairlift (270¥ one way), whose lower station is located on the eastern side. The complex is quite extensive and includes numerous buildings, with a particularly scenic route leading to the castle keep, enhanced by beautiful panoramic views along the way. In the past, the castle also included the outer buildings of the Ninomaru, located at the base of the hill. Although nothing remains today, the area is now occupied by the Ninomaru Garden, a green space that preserves the historical charm of the castle.
Matsuyama Castle
Matsuyama Castle Keep
(entrance 520¥, opening hours 9:00–17:00, until 16:30 Dec–Feb, until 17:30 Aug)
The keep of Matsuyama Castle is a three-story structure located at the top of Mount Katsuyama, 132 meters above sea level, in the heart of the city. The current keep, rebuilt in 1820 after the original five-story structure was destroyed by lightning in 1784, is one of the twelve Japanese castles with original tenshu that have survived to this day. Inside, the keep houses a museum displaying armor, weapons, and historical architectural plans. From the top floor, visitors can enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view over Matsuyama city, the surrounding mountains, and the Seto Inland Sea.
view from Matsuyama Castle keep (credits)
Ninomaru Garden
(entrance 200¥, opening hours 9:00–17:00, until 16:30 Dec–Feb, until 17:30 Aug)
The Ninomaru Historical Garden is a place that combines the concept of a garden with that of an archaeological site, located at the base of Matsuyama Castle in the area that once housed the residence of the feudal lord. Although the original buildings have been lost, the garden has been designed to reflect the layout of the former palace, using flowers, plants, ponds, and lawns to outline the historical foundations.
Bansuiso
(entrance 300¥, opening hours 9:00–18:00, closed on Mondays)
An unusual building with European-style architecture, built in 1922 at the request of a wealthy descendant of a local noble family who had spent a long period studying in France. The project was commissioned to architect Shichiro Kigo. Today the building has been converted into a museum that can be visited inside: in addition to period furnishings, it also displays some works from the Ehime Prefectural Museum of Art. Bansuiso is located at the base of the hill where the famous castle stands, just a few meters from another museum, the Saka no Ue no Kumo.
Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum
(entrance 400¥, opening hours 9:00–18:30, closed on Mondays)
This museum is dedicated to a famous historical novel in modern Japanese literature, Saka no Ue no Kumo by Ryōtarō Shiba (1923–1996). The novel features three protagonists from Matsuyama: Akiyama Yoshifuru, Akiyama Saneyuki, and Masaoka Shiki. The museum is housed in a modern triangular building of remarkable architectural value, designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando and inaugurated in 2007.
Ehime Prefectural Museum of Art
(entrance 330¥, opening hours 9:40–18:00, closed on Mondays)
An art museum located southwest of the castle, within the moat that once surrounded the original structure. The permanent collection includes both European works and pieces by local artists. On the official website, you can check the schedule of special exhibitions.
Akiyama Brothers Birthplace
(entrance 300¥, opening hours 10:00–17:00)
The Akiyama brothers (Akiyama Saneyuki and Akiyama Yoshifuru) were two prominent military figures in the Japanese army, who made a significant contribution to victories in the wars against China and especially Russia at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. Their story is also told in the novel Saka no Ue no Kumo mentioned above. The Akiyama brothers were born in Matsuyama, and their house is now a tourist attraction, although it was destroyed during World War II. The current building has been reconstructed based on old photographs and displays various items related to the history of these two Japanese military figures.
City center area - shopping, restaurants, and entertainment
The main area of Matsuyama for shopping, restaurants, bars, and nightlife is located around Shiroyama Park, about a 20-minute walk east of JR Matsuyama Station. Two covered shopping streets form the backbone of this area: Gintengai and Okaido.
the covered shopping arcade Okaido
At the western entrance of Gintengai is a large station called Matsuyama City Station (nicknamed shieki by locals), served by the city tram and several lines of the private Iyotetsu Railway. Above the station are the Iyotetsu Takashimaya department stores, the largest in the entire Shikoku region.
Matsuyama City Station and Iyotetsu Takashimaya department store
Iyotetsu Takashimaya Department Store
These department stores are the best you can find in Matsuyama and possibly in all of Shikoku for shopping. As usual in Japan, the basement floor features a large food hall with a wide selection of gourmet products. On the sixth floor, there is a small branch of Nitori, the well-known Japanese home furnishing brand. On the seventh floor, you will find Tokyu Hands, while the eighth floor hosts several restaurants. Finally, on the rooftop terrace of the ninth floor stands the Kururin Ferris wheel (10:00–21:00, one ride 800¥), offering beautiful views over the city and the hill where Matsuyama Castle is located. Some special cabins (one ride 1,300¥) are entirely transparent, including the floor.
view from the Kururin wheel (credits)
Dogo Onsen
Dogo Onsen is located in the eastern part of Matsuyama and can be reached in about 15–20 minutes from the city center by tram. Dogo Onsen is one of the oldest and most charming hot spring districts in Japan, famous for its traditional atmosphere and historic wooden buildings. The heart of the area is the legendary Dogo Onsen Honkan, an iconic structure that has inspired writers, artists, and even the famous animation director Hayao Miyazaki. In addition to the bathhouses, the area is lively with pedestrian streets full of small shops, historic ryokan, and attractions such as the famous mechanical clock dedicated to the novel “Botchan.” Walking through the streets of Dogo Onsen feels like stepping back in time, surrounded by yukata, lanterns, and the relaxing scent of hot spring waters. To learn more about Dogo Onsen and its baths, visit the dedicated page.
Dogo Onsen Honkan
Other places of interest
Matsuyama Sogo Koen
Matsuyama Sōgō Kōen is a large hilly park located about 1.5 km west of Matsuyama Station. At the highest point of the hill stands a unique observation platform modeled after a European castle, built to symbolize the friendship with the twin city of Freiburg in Germany. From this structure, you can enjoy a 360-degree view over the city and the surrounding nature. In another area of the park, there is an archaeological museum (Archaeological Museum at Matsuyama City). For children, the park features an enormous playground and a very long roller slide. The park is also known for its collection of camellias as well as its hundreds of cherry blossom trees, which usually bloom a few days later than those in central Matsuyama.
the curious “castle” of Sogo Koen
Russian Cemetery
The Russian cemetery in Matsuyama is an unusual stop, especially recommended for Russian tourists and enthusiasts of military history tourism. Located in a quiet hilly area filled with small temples, the cemetery hosts the graves of Russian soldiers captured during the Russo-Japanese War (1904–1905) who died while being held in Matsuyama, which at the time housed one of the main prisoner-of-war camps of the Japanese Empire. Each grave bears the name of the deceased in both Japanese and Cyrillic script, along with symbols indicating their religious faith. According to the Japanese version of events, prisoners were treated well by the local population and were even allowed to go out to visit hot springs or attend the theater. It is said that news of this spread among Russian troops, and that some soldiers, at the moment of surrender, shouted “Matsuyama!”. While this story may be partly idealized, the site today remains a symbol of mutual respect and reconciliation, offering a lesser-known but meaningful insight into the city’s history.
Where to stay in Matsuyama
When choosing where to stay in Matsuyama, the three main areas to consider are the area around JR Matsuyama Station, the city center (Ōkaidō and Gintengai), and the Dōgo Onsen district, each with its own advantages. :contentReference[oaicite:0]{index=0} The station area is convenient for those arriving or departing by train, but it is rather quiet in the evening and farther from the main attractions. The city center, around the covered shopping arcades, is the ideal choice for those looking for nightlife, restaurants, shops, and easy access to the castle. Dōgo Onsen is perfect for those seeking a more traditional and relaxing stay, with ryokan, hot springs, and a historic atmosphere, although it is slightly removed from the modern city center. Throughout the city, there are several business hotels at very low prices compared to other Japanese cities.
Recommended hotels in central Matsuyama
Terminal Hotel Matsuyama is a practical and affordable option for those arriving by train, thanks to its location next to JR Matsuyama Station. Recommended for those catching early morning trains, or for travelers with large luggage who prefer not to carry it around the city. Its private rooms are among the cheapest in the city (especially double rooms), ideal for those looking for a simple but functional stay without sacrificing privacy. Rooms are very small. The location allows easy access to public transport, making it simple to visit Matsuyama Castle and Dōgo Onsen. Good breakfast at a very reasonable price, 980¥ per person.
Price range: single 5,000–6,000¥, double 6,000–8,000¥.
Check In Matsuyama is a modern hotel well located in the city center, along the lively Ōkaidō shopping street, one of the most vibrant areas of Matsuyama. Perfect for those who want to stay in an area full of shops and restaurants. Matsuyama Castle can be reached on foot, while Dōgo Onsen and JR Matsuyama Station are just a few minutes away by tram. Rooms are small but comfortable. One of the highlights is the small onsen and sauna on the top floor, free for guests. Good breakfast at an even more affordable price, 800¥ per person.
Price range: single 5,000–6,000¥, double 7,000–9,000¥.
Dormy Inn Matsuyama is one of the best choices in the city thanks to its excellent included services and central location, just steps from the Ōkaidō shopping area. On our site, we often recommend Dormy Inn hotels when prices are similar to other business hotels, as the quality is consistently excellent. Here you can relax in the large onsen, enjoy free ramen in the evening, and take advantage of complimentary ice cream and Yakult offered at night and in the morning. Rooms are modern, well furnished, and equipped with all comforts. However, Matsuyama offers many cheaper alternatives, like the business hotels mentioned above. We recommend Dormy Inn mainly if room comfort is a priority for you.
Price range: single 9,000–10,000¥, double 14,000–16,000¥.
Dogo Onsen
A particularly charming but more expensive option is to stay in the Dōgo Onsen district, where you can experience a traditional ryokan with onsen, fully immersing yourself in the historic atmosphere of the city. Although slightly removed from the modern city center, this area is still well connected and perfect for those seeking relaxation and authenticity. For a detailed selection of the best ryokan in the area, visit the dedicated page on where to stay in Dōgo Onsen.
How to get to Matsuyama
By train
To reach Matsuyama by train from major Japanese cities such as Tokyo and Osaka, you first need to get to Okayama, a city located roughly halfway between Osaka and Hiroshima and served by the high-speed Sanyo shinkansen line.
Okayama and Matsuyama are connected by the JR Shiokaze limited express train in about 170 minutes. A one-way ticket costs around 7,500¥, with departures approximately once per hour.
By bus
Matsuyama is also connected by long-distance buses from various companies to the main cities of Japan. From Tokyo, the journey is very long (12–14 hours), while from Osaka it is much more manageable, taking about 6–7 hours. Both routes are served by the well-known low-cost company Willer Express, widely used by foreign tourists.
By plane
Matsuyama has its own airport located close to the city (Matsuyama Airport, MYJ), conveniently connected to the center by bus. From the airport, buses stop first at JR Matsuyama Station (700¥, 15 minutes), then at Matsuyama-shi Station (790¥, 20 minutes), and finally at Dogo Onsen (950¥, 40 minutes).
The airport is connected to several Japanese cities, including Tokyo (90 minutes flight) and Osaka (60 minutes flight). The low-cost airline Jetstar Japan also operates flights to Tokyo. If you do not have a Japan Rail Pass, flying is often recommended over trains not only for time but also for cost, especially when using low-cost carriers or special tourist fares offered by JAL and ANA.
By ferry
If you are staying near Hiroshima or in the Kyushu region not too far from Beppu, the ferry can be a convenient and interesting way to reach Matsuyama.
From Hiroshima
The port of Hiroshima and the port of Matsuyama (
Takahama, about 20 minutes by train from the city center) are frequently connected by the
Setonaikai Kisen ferry company. There are fast boat services that take about 70 minutes (8,000¥) and regular ferries where you can also board cars, taking about 2 hours and 30 minutes and costing less (5,000¥). More information is available on the
official website, also available in English. The route itself is very scenic, crossing the Seto Inland Sea.
From Beppu
If you are in Beppu or nearby areas, a combination of ferry and train is the fastest way to reach Matsuyama. The
Uwajima Unyu Ferry company operates six daily connections between Beppu port and the port of
Yawatahama. The journey takes about 3 hours and a one-way ticket costs around 4,500¥ for the cheapest class. More details, schedules, and prices are available on the
company website. To these costs and travel times, you need to add the connection between Yawatahama and Matsuyama. Yawatahama is a port on the southern coast of Shikoku, reachable from Matsuyama by limited express train in about 45 minutes (3,000¥) or by local train in about 2 hours (1,430¥).
How to get around Matsuyama
The main station of the city, where you will arrive if coming from other parts of Japan by train, is JR Matsuyama Station. However, it is important to note that it is not located in the heart of the city. The city center, with the Ōkaidō and Gintengai shopping streets and the entrance to Matsuyama Castle Park, is about a 20–25 minute walk away or 10 minutes by tram, a convenient and efficient means of transport connecting the main areas of Matsuyama.
There is also another important station in the city, called Matsuyama City Station, which is the main hub of the private Iyo Railway. The area around this station is the true commercial center of the city, with many shops and restaurants. However, you will rarely need to use this station, as the best way to reach this area from JR Matsuyama Station is, as mentioned, by tram. This station may be useful if you arrive by ferry from Hiroshima. In that case, to take the ferry you will first need to reach Takahama Station via the Takahama Line of Iyo Railway, whose terminus is Matsuyama City Station.
Trams in Matsuyama
The best way to move from JR Matsuyama Station to all the main tourist attractions is by using the city tram network. A tram ticket costs 200¥, regardless of the distance traveled, and a day pass is also available for 800¥. The fare is paid directly on board, in cash or using IC cards such as Suica or ICOCA. The tram lines connect the main points of interest, such as Matsuyama Castle, Dōgo Onsen, Ōkaidō, and of course JR Matsuyama Station, making it easy to explore the city without any difficulty.
Matsuyama tram network map
How to get to Matsuyama Castle
If you want to reach the castle by ropeway, the closest tram stop is Okaido (5 minutes from Matsuyama Station). Many other attractions in Matsuyama are located near this stop or nearby stops. You can easily check the nearest stop using the Google Maps map provided at the bottom of the page.
How to get to Dogo Onsen
Dogo Onsen is the terminus of three tram lines: lines #3, #5, and #6. From Matsuyama Station, it takes about 20 minutes.
How to get to Sogo Koen
Sōgō Kōen is not directly served by the tram, so reaching it requires combining public transport with a short walk. The most convenient option is to take a bus from JR Matsuyama Station or the city center toward Aidaigakubu (愛大附属学校前) or Minamiyoshidamachi (南吉田町), getting off at Sōgō Kōen-mae (総合公園前) or nearby. From there, continue on foot uphill for about 15–20 minutes. Alternatively, if you prefer walking, you can reach the park entirely on foot from the city center in about 40–45 minutes.
Map of Matsuyama
Guided tours, activities and other things to do
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