Kurokawa Onsen (黒川温泉) is one of Japan’s most enchanting hot spring towns, located in the mountains of Kyushu, north of Mount Aso, about 70 km from both Kumamoto and Beppu. This charming village is renowned for its traditional atmosphere and numerous ryokan with open-air baths, all nestled in unspoiled natural surroundings. Unlike other hot spring resorts that have become modernized, Kurokawa Onsen has preserved its authenticity, with cobblestone streets, wooden bridges, and lanterns that illuminate the village at night, creating a magical and timeless ambiance. Kurokawa Onsen is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling in Kyushu and passionate about Japanese hot springs.
Things to See and Do
Enjoying the hot springs, staying in ryokan, and exploring the village's narrow streets are the main activities in Kurokawa Onsen. The center of Kurokawa is small and can be comfortably explored on foot in about an hour. The village offers a peaceful and intimate atmosphere, with artisan shops, cozy cafés, and small hidden shrines nestled between traditional wooden houses. Walking along the river, you’ll see historic ryokan with wooden façades that evoke a timeless atmosphere. In the evening, the village lights up with soft lanterns illuminating the alleys, accompanied by the gentle sound of the flowing river—a romantic and magical setting. It’s the perfect moment for a walk in a *yukata*, the traditional robe often provided by ryokan, to fully immerse yourself in the authentic charm of this hot spring town.
One of the most iconic experiences in Kurokawa Onsen is the "rotenburo meguri," a system that allows you to visit up to three different outdoor hot springs by purchasing a special pass called the Nyuyoku Tegata. This pass costs 1500¥ and can be purchased at the ryokan where you're staying or at the tourist information center if you're visiting just for the day. The pass is a wooden disc made from local cedar, which serves both as your entry ticket and as a lovely souvenir. Alternatively, you can choose to visit two public baths and receive a small gift from one of the participating shops. With 26 different hot spring baths to choose from, it's hard to recommend just one—visit the Kurokawa Onsen Ryokan Association website for a full guide with descriptions and photos. If you'd like to visit more than three baths, each additional entry costs between 500 and 800¥. Opening hours vary slightly by location, but in general, baths are open to day visitors from around 8–10 AM until 8–9 PM. A traditional part of the experience is walking through the village streets wearing a *yukata*, a light cotton kimono similar to a robe but more stylish and practical. Guests staying at a ryokan are usually provided with one to wear both inside and outside. If you're not staying overnight, you can still rent a *yukata* at the tourist information center.
Soak in a small unattended public bath for just 200¥
While tourists often go for the postcard-perfect onsen inside ryokan, locals—and a few off-the-beaten-path travelers—quietly make use of two small, unattended baths: Anayu (穴湯) and Jizoyu (地蔵湯). Non-residents may use the baths only between 7:30 AM and 7:00 PM. You'll need to bring everything with you (towels, etc.) as there are only simple shelves for your belongings and the thermal water tubs. Both options offer a very rustic and authentic experience, but with some differences:
Anayu (穴湯) is particularly charming—it's a small wooden hut right next to the river. Payment is based on trust: you place the 200 yen fee in a wooden box at the entrance. Note that this bath is mixed-gender, meaning men and women share the same room (though women have a small changing area with a door). The tub fits no more than 3–4 people, and it's rarely crowded, making it ideal for solo use or couples. However, women should be aware that since the space is open, there's always a risk someone might enter while you're bathing.
Jizoyu (地蔵湯), on the other hand, is divided into two small sections—one for men (男湯) and one for women (女湯). There’s no English signage inside, so make sure you recognize the kanji provided. Entry is controlled by automatic doors, which only open after inserting the fee. Inside each section are two tubs, and you can adjust the temperature by moving the bamboo pipe that carries hot water. Jizoyu feels less wild but is easier to use for first-time visitors—especially for women.
You’ll find the location of both on our map at the end of this guide. If searching on Google Maps, we recommend using the Japanese names, as they are not correctly listed in English.
Anayu Onsen
Jizoyu Onsen
Okunoin
Okunoin is a sacred spot surrounded by nature, wrapped in an air of mystery and spirituality. Located a short distance from the village center, this hidden shrine houses a statue of Fudō Myōō, a protective Buddhist deity, placed beside a small waterfall. According to local tradition, Fudō Myōō is considered the guardian of the hot springs—an immovable and steadfast figure who protects the sacred waters of the area. The shrine is also believed to ward off disasters and bring good fortune. It is rarely visited, which only adds to its mystical and serene charm.
Where to Stay in Kurokawa Onsen
Ryokan
Kurokawa Onsen doesn’t have large hotels or modern buildings. The main accommodation option is the traditional ryokan, where you can enjoy an authentic experience with a kaiseki dinner, Japanese-style rooms, and both private and shared hot spring baths. As Kurokawa is a very popular destination with limited space for expansion, prices have increased significantly in recent years. On weekends and holidays, it’s highly recommended to book well in advance, as availability may be limited. Many ryokan in the area are listed on major international booking platforms (especially on booking.com), but some can only be reserved through their own websites. For a complete overview, you can visit the Kurokawa Onsen Ryokan Association website.
Yama no Yado Shinmeikan is a traditional ryokan located in the heart of Kurokawa Onsen, in an ideal location for walking around the village. Housed in a building with over 130 years of history, it preserves the charm of old Japan. All rooms are Japanese-style with tatami, small but cozy, and are prepared each evening by the staff while guests relax in the baths. The property offers five unique onsen, including a spectacular cave onsen carved into the rock, which is one of its highlights. The ryokan overlooks a river, and the sound of flowing water adds to the immersive and relaxing atmosphere. Excellent kaiseki-style dinner and breakfast are included.
Price range: double with breakfast and dinner 40,000–50,000¥.
Sato no Yu Waraku Ryokan is an elegant traditional ryokan located about 2.5 km from the center of Kurokawa Onsen, surrounded by peaceful nature. It’s not reachable on foot from the village center, but a free shuttle service is available for guests. The ryokan is known for its exceptional rooms, spacious and stylish, comparable to a 5-star Western hotel. Some rooms have Western-style beds with a Japanese-style sitting area, while others are fully Japanese-style with futons on tatami floors. All rooms come with a balcony overlooking the forest, creating a peaceful atmosphere immersed in nature. Some rooms also feature a private indoor onsen bath, ideal for guests seeking total privacy. The property includes several shared baths, including an open-air bath in the woods and an impressive cave onsen. Refined kaiseki meals are always included.
Price range: double with breakfast and dinner 60,000–90,000¥.
Container House Villa Kurokawa is a more affordable alternative to Kurokawa’s traditional ryokan, offering a unique lodging experience in independent units built from shipping containers. Yes, you read that right—it’s essentially a forest-surrounded parking lot with multiple containers converted into comfortable, winter-heated private rooms with bathrooms. Don’t be put off by the word “container”—the rooms are just as comfortable as a hotel. The property also features a shared hot spring bath, but no dining service. If you want to explore the various open-air onsen in the area, you can still purchase the Nyuyoku Tegata pass and enjoy the full Kurokawa experience—without paying the high rates now common at the more famous ryokan in town.
Price range: single use 7,500–9,000¥, double use 13,000–15,000¥.
Container House Villa Kurokawa
Where to Eat in Kurokawa Onsen
In Kurokawa Onsen, the best culinary experience is undoubtedly the one offered by ryokan, which serve exquisite kaiseki-style dinners, a traditional multi-course Japanese meal prepared with seasonal ingredients. If you're staying at a ryokan, we highly recommend taking advantage of this unique opportunity, which is often included with your stay.
For those visiting Kurokawa Onsen just for the day, there are several options available in the morning and at lunchtime, including small restaurants and bakeries offering local dishes, sweets, and snacks you can enjoy while strolling through the village’s charming streets. However, keep in mind that most places close between 4:00 PM and 5:00 PM, making it difficult to find food later in the evening.
One of the few restaurants open at night is Izakaya Iroriya, which stays open until 10:30 PM. As it's a small and often popular spot, we recommend making a reservation in advance, especially during peak travel seasons.
How to Get to Kurokawa Onsen
Since there is no nearby train station, Kurokawa Onsen can only be reached by bus or car.
By Bus from Kumamoto and Beppu
The Kyushu Odan Bus runs between Kumamoto and Beppu, stopping at Aso Station and Kurokawa Onsen along the way. It provides a convenient direct connection to this famous hot spring town:
From Aso Station to Kurokawa: the journey takes 50 minutes and costs 1300¥.
From Kumamoto to Kurokawa: about 3 hours, 2800¥.
From Beppu to Kurokawa: about 2.5 hours, 3400¥.
You can check schedules and purchase tickets on the Japan Bus Online website.
By Bus from Fukuoka
Kyushu Sanko Bus also operates a direct connection from Fukuoka, with two to three buses per day. Morning departures are ideal for day trips with a return in the evening, while midday departures are timed to arrive in Kurokawa Onsen around the usual ryokan check-in time, perfect for those staying overnight. You can check schedules and book tickets on the Willer Express website.
Day Trip from Fukuoka
There are also tourist bus tours from Fukuoka that depart early in the morning and take you to visit Kumamoto Castle, Mount Aso, and the hot springs of Kurokawa before returning to Fukuoka in the evening. This is a great option for travelers short on time who want to explore Kyushu without renting a car. More information and booking
How to Get Around Kurokawa Onsen
Kurokawa Onsen is a compact village and can be easily explored on foot. The hot spring area stretches along a small river, and the main attractions—including ryokan, shops, and restaurants—are all within walking distance. If you’re staying at a ryokan located farther from the center, most accommodations offer free shuttle service to and from the main bus stop (check with your ryokan when booking). For those arriving by car, there are several free public parking lots near the village center, particularly one next to the tourist information center. There are no local public transport options within the village, but Kurokawa’s small size makes it ideal for exploring on foot, enjoying the charm of the town and its beautiful natural surroundings.
Map of Kurokawa Onsen
Guided tours, activities and other things to do
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How to use Rakuten Travel Experiences
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Anayu Onsen
Jizoyu Onsen
Yama no Yado Shinmeikan is a traditional ryokan located in the heart of Kurokawa Onsen, in an ideal location for walking around the village. Housed in a building with over 130 years of history, it preserves the charm of old Japan. All rooms are Japanese-style with tatami, small but cozy, and are prepared each evening by the staff while guests relax in the baths. The property offers five unique onsen, including a spectacular cave onsen carved into the rock, which is one of its highlights. The ryokan overlooks a river, and the sound of flowing water adds to the immersive and relaxing atmosphere. Excellent kaiseki-style dinner and breakfast are included.
Price range: double with breakfast and dinner 40,000–50,000¥.
the onsen baths at Yama no Yado Shinmeikan
Sato no Yu Waraku Ryokan is an elegant traditional ryokan located about 2.5 km from the center of Kurokawa Onsen, surrounded by peaceful nature. It’s not reachable on foot from the village center, but a free shuttle service is available for guests. The ryokan is known for its exceptional rooms, spacious and stylish, comparable to a 5-star Western hotel. Some rooms have Western-style beds with a Japanese-style sitting area, while others are fully Japanese-style with futons on tatami floors. All rooms come with a balcony overlooking the forest, creating a peaceful atmosphere immersed in nature. Some rooms also feature a private indoor onsen bath, ideal for guests seeking total privacy. The property includes several shared baths, including an open-air bath in the woods and an impressive cave onsen. Refined kaiseki meals are always included.
Price range: double with breakfast and dinner 60,000–90,000¥.
the onsen baths at Sato no Yu Waraku
Container House Villa Kurokawa
